Dejiko Shoes and Gloves

Dejiko Shoes are a relatively easy shoe cover because you have a little wriggle room for making mistakes since it doesn't need to be a tight cover and you will be using stuffing to create the shape you need.

Difficulty: Medium
Total Time: approx 8 hours

First find a cheap, comfortable pair of slippers to use as your base. Mine cost less than $10 and there didn't seem to be a left and a right foot so they were perfect for this application.

The boot cover itself is a bit like a horseshoe shape with the open end of the horse shoe sewn so the seam is at the back of the heal on the boot. Depending on what kind of slipper you have bought will potentially change the shape of your shoe cover.

Get some scrap material and start by making a horseshoe shape that can cover the boot. Don't worry about the toe at this stage (you need a little excess there), but when you sew a seam up the back make sure you can get it over the boot and so that the top is around your ankle height. Have a close look at the pictures. Then cut your pattern out of your polar fleece.

Use a long stitch along the front of the boot cover and gather in the toe, then stitch up the back and line up your shoe cover. Use pins to hold it in place and gather more or less until the bottom of the boot cover fits snuggly over your slipper. Using a curved needle stitch your boot cover close to the sole of the slipper.

Next lightly stuff the front of the boot cover on top of the slipper until you have the desired "fluffiness" and, using a long matress needle, take a length of cotton in through the material and stuffing close to the sole and up out of the top of the foot being careful not to pierce the slipper. Pull the cotton tight, tie and hide the ends. This will form the toes.

Next make a "leg warmer" out of a tube of material. Hem the top and insert some elastic to hold them up. The bottom should be the same size as the opening you have for your shoe cover. Line up the bottom of the boot cover with the top of the shoe cover and carefully stitch around them. Because there is some looseness around your leg it doesn't matter if it isn't perfect and you won't see this seam.

Finally add your ribbon trim and you're done!

The gloves are made in very much the same way.

I used a cheap pair of acrylic wool gloves that I bought for approx $2 and used the left over polar fleece. The pattern for the top is larger than the bottom pattern and I have created a hint of two fingers and a thumb so they are reasonably functional for carrying things, but not for doing anything more specific such as using a mobile phone or retrieving money from a wallet.

First sew the top and bottom together and leave inside out. Place the real 5-finger glove onto the inside out dejiko glove and stitch the fingers into place around the tips and down either side of the hand. Now turn your glove in the right way so that the real glove is inside and lightly stuff the top, leaving the palm unstuffed. Now turn the polar fleece in at the wrists and stitch to keep the stuffing in place.

Cat Ears

An upcoming costume required ears, but I've realized there aren't really any instructions on how to make these, so I had to make it up as I go along. Perhaps this will help someone.

Difficulty: Easy
Total Time: approx 3 hours

I bought a black headband that had a material covering to sew my ears to, but you could just as easily attach clips or hair pins and attach your ears straight to your hair.

First I made a pattern from paper by cutting and trimming until I reached a shape that I liked. At the centre of the head my ears fold over to try to make them look more natural.

Next I cut 2 pieces of polar fleece for each side and sewed the top edges together, leaving the bottom edge unsewn. These were turned inside out, then I hand stitched a small piece of black toy fur to the inside of the ear so it looks like longer fur coming from the inside (many anime ears show this, but real ears look a bit different).

I used pins to mark the centre of the headband and then hold the ears in place while I stitched them down. I found that they looked better with about two inches left between them at the top of the headband. Its easiest to stitch on the ears with a curved needle - in fact I think it would be almost impossible without one. Curved needles are really good for sewing something to a flat surface, especially if the surface is solid because the curve helps you to push the needle through and come up and out the other side.

Carefully stitch all the way around the ear. When you do the second one take extra care to keep the positions symetrical. And with a bit of patience, you will have some lovely fluffy ears.

Jorvik Cap

I've always wanted one of these for sun protection, so it was about time I made one. I deviated from the accepted pattern to make it more comfortable, and completely hand-sewed it so that accounts for the time.

Difficulty: Easy
Total Time: approx 6 hours

The accepted pattern for the Jorvik cap is generally a rectangle which has a seam sewed to fit to the curve of the head. The caps of this kind found in Jorvik had this part tailored so that the cap was curved (as in the one I have made), however in Dublin the material was not cut, leaving a point created by the seam.

To fit my head better I tailored the curve a little more and ended up sewing this in two pieces. This also allowed me to leave the seam open at the back of the neck so that my hair won't becom too bunched up underneath. Fitting something to the head can be hard, so I had help with checking how the seam was lying on the mockup and alterating the length of the cap.

I sewed and hemmed the cap by hand using linen thread, then used wool embroidery wool to do some decorative stem stitch around the outisde. The linen ties were also hand sewed, then attached to the cap.

The generally accepted way of wearing this style of hood is with the strap under the chin and flaps hanging down over the ears, however I find it much more comfortable to tie it like a scarf at the back of my neck (as shown), which should keep my hair out of my face better as well.

Earrings

I wanted something special for a Christmas present. Then I was going through my old jewellery and found my pearls and amber and remembered at the same time I'd bought a few different gemstone beads, so I decided to make something.

Difficulty: Easy
Total Time: 1 hour

These aren't hard to make, they're just fiddly. I never knew that hand crafted jewellery could look this good though. I really like using jump rings and head pins. I bought myself some earring hooks and silver chain as well as the pretty heart spacer charms and put it all together with some real garnet and real peridot. The only other things needed are two pairs of small pliers and a bit of patience coupled with some creativity.

The first set are garnet (2 x 6mm and 18 x 4mm), 2 heart accents,  10 head pins, 12 jump rings and 2 earring hooks.

The second set are peridot (2 x 5mm, 6 x 4mm), 2 jump rings, silver chain and 2 earring hooks.

Petticoats

After listening to advice about working with netting I have finally achieved a lovely Lolita petticoat with lots of "poomf"! These petticoats form the integral part of the "bell shape" which is typical in Lolita style clothes.

Difficulty: Easy
Total Time: 4 hours

These petticoats really aren't all that hard. I now know that I simply made some errors in fabric choice and was far to gentle which proved the downfall of my first petticoat.

First get a decent cotton or poly/cotton as the base of the petticoat. You really don't want to work with anything shiny, slippery or light weight because you just won't be able to sew the netting to it.

Second, get yourself some netting. You want the normal netting, not the bridal stuff because the bridal netting is just too thin and doesn't give that nice "poomf" when you put your garments on overtop.

The petticoats from Gosu Rori magazine have a tapered shape as the base of the skirt. Sew the two halves together and then mark out where you will sew the netting to make it easier to pin and control. Hem the bottom of the petticoat now if you need to because the netting will make that hard later on. Put this part aside for a minute.

Cut out your lengths of netting (mine were one length of 2.6m x 33cm and one length of 1.6m x 25cm) and gather one side. Pin one length along the line on your base material and stitch into place. Then pin the next length along the other line and stitch.

Sew your waistband onto the top of the skirt and insert your elastic, and you're done!

You can be quite rough with the netting. You won't hurt it!! Make it conform to where you want to sew... and worse case - remember it is going under your garment and doesn't need to look perfect.

If you find the netting is scratching on your legs you might have made the netting ruffles a little too long. Trim them a centimetre or two all the way around so that the netting is above the cotton base and then the cotton should protect your legs.

Bunny Bag

After deciding to do a Lolita version of Alice in Wonderland for the Fairy Tale Picnic event I remembered I had a pattern for a Sweet Lolita bag that was in the shape of a white rabbit. There is no better accessory to hide my wallet and keys!!

Difficulty: Easy
Total Time: 6 hours

I photocopied the pattern out of Gosu Rori vol 4, but the pattern itself could be adapted to any soft toy where you can put a zip up the back. I only got cheap toy fur because I am probably only going to use the bag once and at the beginning I wasn't sure how it would turn out and didn't really want to spend up to $60 on fur. So my "scrooge" side won out on this one.

I used about 60cm of fake fur. One tip is to make sure you pay close attention to the way the fur will go. I drew each piece on to the back of the fur, but if you do that make sure you two each of the front and back of the pieces (ie. you need to turn over your paper pieces and do the other side too)

Next carefully cut the fur out. Because the fabric is fur you need to try to cut between the fur follicles. You can see why by having a look at where the shop assistant cut the fur. It is all ratty because the fur was cut through. You need to try not to cut through the fur, just the backing material.

Finally you can start to sew the pieces together. For the head I sewed the ears into the top seams where the gusset joins the sides of the head together. The arms, legs and ears are all relatively straight forward to sew together. After each piece is together turn it the right way and carefully pull the fur out of the seam lines.

The instructions for the body didn't include a lining for the bag itself and I wondered how the bunny would look if it had my wallet, keys and other things inside without having a little stuffing in there too so that he keeps his shape. I used the original body pattern to draw a smaller shape for my gusset and cut it out of white cotton. First I sewed the zip onto the fur and sewed around the fur leaving a small opening in the front. Next I sewed both pieces of cototn lining to the zip as well so that all the seams would end up in the bunnies tummy. Then I sewed around the lining without leaving a gap. I could turn the stomach in the right way through the gap in the fur seam and then after attaching the arms and legs (described next) I lightly stuffed either side of the stomach lining.

I used some blue toy eyes and some simple plastic arm and leg joints which you can get from the "teddy bear" area in your craft shop. With some of these things you either need to be quite strong to put them together, or use a pair of pliers. You can join each of the arms and legs to the body and then stuff the arms and legs and sew the holes closed.

Finally the head is stitched to the top of the body with a piece of ribbon coming out of the back of the neck seam as a handle. Then I added some lace and a blue ribbon around his neck and stitched on his nose with black cotton embroidery thread.

Wa-Lolita Dress

The Picnic at Himeji Gardens in South Australia gave me the perfect excuse to make a wa-loli (Japanese inspired lolita) dress. It was quite simple in design and easier to fit, but the material was expensive.

Difficulty: Easy
Total Time: 35 hours

The dress was a design from Gosu Rori vol 7. I constructed a mock up of the top of the dress to ensure the sizing was correct and deliberated for a while over the sleeves. I wasn't sure if the sleeve design would work because when I tried it I found that there was quite a noticeable crease near the arm pit on my mock up.

I constructed a second set in sleeve and tried this, however I then felt that the sleeve was too fitted and was not in keeping with the Kimono-style of a wa-loli dress. You can see from the photo the two types of sleeves I tried and here are the patterns for each.

I constructed a second mock up using a lighter material which more closely matched the printed cotton material I had chosen for the dress and found that actually the creasing around the arms wasn't as noticeable as I'd thought it would be, therefore I decided to plow ahead.

The dress itself was very easy to construct. My only downfall was the printed material. I wanted to try to keep the geisha design upright, so I had cut my material carefully and sewn each piece together after carefully lining up the sections. I started taking some progress shots after sewing the sleeves together and then noticed a big issue through my view finder. Because of the way the sleeves were put together one side of each sleeve was up the wrong way. I had to unpick both sleeves completely and cut them in half so that I could have the pattern the right way up on both sides.

The bottom of the dress was never going to be up the right way, so I just sewed it as best as I could. The collar was partially hand sewn, which was the most time consuming part, but for the majority of the hemming I used the machine.

The corset was a simple pattern which I had already used once for the corset of my Urchin cancan dress . I altered it a little to see if it would work better if I had a squarer design. I am not 100% happy with it, but it did the job. One point was that I should have been more careful with the poly boning because I didn't trim it accurately this time and it starts to poke out through the material.

The material of the corset itself was cut to allow the majority of the pattern to show. It had an intermittent pattern which I wanted to utilize in the body of the corset. I also had to be careful that I used the right sides together because one side up was blacker than the other side when it caught the light.

I purchased my geta from an ebay seller in the US. They arrived really quickly, and although simple they did the job. Unfortunately my puppy decided they were a good chew toy at one stage and took a chunk out of one of the sides, but thankfully no-one noticed on the day.